High Cuisine

I'm about to fly across the US, with the big novelty being that this is a "vacation" trip instead of a "business" trip. I have looked at the ticket and observed that on the trans-US portion of the journey there is "food available for purchase". What changed? Not much. In fact, unless you count the sudden absence of the eleven mini-pretzels or the tiny packet of almonds (who the fuck thought almonds were a good idea?) the lack of food does not represent a departure from the standards of air travel that we have all come to love.
When free food does manifest itself on a flight it's a mixed blessing. You feel you ought to eat it, simply because it happens so rarely that it's a shame to waste it, but the food itself is actually rather shite, so that you'd mostly be better off eating before you left or after you arrived. The exception is international flights and I'm sure the only reason they still serve food at all is to keep the passengers docile. When you fly coach they don't fuck about - it's a straightforward choice: you want the beef or the chicken? Spend more than a second making up your mind and the flight attendant gives you that withering look, as if to say "hurry up - they both taste the fucking same anyway". The tray holds your portion of hot food, a tiny bread roll, a small cup of water and an appallingly colored dessert that allegedly contains a fruit-based substance.
Up in business class the experience is different. Actually the food isn't very different: they bring you a menu, beautifully printed on quality card, and describing the various options in terms that would be actionable in most civilized society. Suffice it to say that nothing you receive will be recognizable based on the description you read earlier. Mostly the food is no worse than in coach - it just takes them longer to get it all served. On my flight last week, however, I experienced a salmon dish that had me wondering just what chef from hell assembled the ingredients. It was a piece of pink fish, supposedly salmon, but covered in a green substance that defied any attempt to describe it. It was sweet but sort of not. It had the texture of sawdust soaked in snot. And it was definitely inferior to the standard chicken/beef option that they no doubt had back in coach. Sometimes you can try too hard, and airline food doesn't generally get improved by too much fucking about.
Still, I can't really complain too much - I did, after all, get my small pot of hot nuts, which is the undoubted highlight of any such flight. We also had that rarest of species, a youngish flight attendant. You wouldn't call her exactly attractive - that's not the point. It's just that she wasn't some sixty-five year-old harridan, riddled with institutionalised hate from four decades of pouring drinks and having cursory sex with fat pilots in depressing airport hotels around the world. I wouldn't have given her one, unless I'd been drunk and significantly less married than I am, but if I had I would not have been forced into vomiting, which is something of a novelty on international flights with US carriers. It's a long time to be cooped up in one place and it's simply not fair that any semblance of a "flight attendant mid-air shag" fantasy is destroyed by the insistence on appointing the very ugliest women to these routes.
Anyway, when it comes time for our flight we'll be packing some food in advance. The only thing worse than disappointing in-flight food is getting fucked in the financial arse by providers of equally crap food in the airport itself, and having to stand in line with hundreds of stupid holidaymakers with poor personal hygiene, clothed from head to foot in ill-fitting brightly colored fabrics for the privilege. Some people are so thick and depressing it's enough to put you off your salmon-in-a-snot-sauce.
Copyright 2007 Edward Bison










